As a Hungarian-American kid, I always wondered why we never celebrated Halloween in my household. Only as an adult did I come to realize that it's purely an American holiday. But I always wondered if Hungarian kids get the chance to dress up and be whomever they wish to be for one day. The answer is Carnival (the European equivalent of Mardi Gras). I never got dressed up for the holiday, but in Hungary my little nephews always did for Farsang, which is what it's called in Hungarian. But never mind all those Mardi Gras celebrations. For me, the best part about Carnival—and New Orleans—are the beignets, the doughnuts. Crispy, fluffy, and airy doughnuts!
A few years ago I was on a quest to find the best beignets in New York City. I tried the dessert at countless restaurants only to discover leaden balls and soggy balls. I thought I'd never find the airy beignets I had been desperately seeking. That was until a lunch at The Modern. At the time the kitchen was led by Alsatian chef Gabriel Kreuther. (Now you can find his amazing beignets at his namesake restaurant in midtown.) The beignets I had for dessert at The Modern were the crispiest and airiest doughnuts on earth. Ever since then I've been hankering to make my Hungarian version of these celebratory treats at home.
My version of the classic Farsang doughnut is a cross between traditional beignets and fritters. In Hungary these doughnuts are called csörögefánk or forgácsfánk. Like classic doughnuts, the recipe uses yeast for leavening instead of baking powder, which you would use in fritter recipes. Not only does this create a puffier pastry, it's also lighter and crisper in texture. It only takes 30 minutes to let the dough rise, so it's quicker than making traditional doughnuts. (When I have a craving I don't want to wait hours for dough to rise!) You'll love these doughnuts dusted with powdered sugar and served with some homemade apricot preserves.
Angel Wing Doughnuts (Csörögefánk)
This recipe is adapted from a Hungarian food magazine clipping.
9 ounces all-purpose flour
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup warm milk (130 degrees F.)
2 tablespoons sugar
1 envelope yeast
2 egg yolks
3 tablespoons melted butter
1/4 cup sour cream
2 tablespoons rum
vegetable oil, for frying
confectioners sugar, for dusting
apricot preserves, for serving
In a large bowl, whisk together flour and salt. Combine milk and sugar in a small bowl, stirring until sugar is mostly dissolved. Stir in yeast and allow to proof. Add to bowl with flour. Add egg yolks, butter, sour cream, and rum. Using a wooden spoon or your hands, mix until combined. Knead a little until a smooth ball of dough forms. Transfer to a floured bowl, cover with a towel, and allow to proof in a warm place for about 30 minutes.
Turn dough out onto a floured work surface. Cut into 3 manageable pieces. Working with one piece at a time, knead a little to ensure dough is resilient and no longer sticky. Roll to a thickness of 1/8 inch. Using a scalloped pastry cutter, cut into 2-1/2-inch by 6-inch rectangles. Using a sharp knife cut a slit in the center of each rectangle. Pull one side of the rectangle through the slit to create a bowtie. Edge scraps can be rerolled.
Heat about 2 inches of oil in a large skillet to 365 degrees F. Fry doughnuts in batches until golden brown, about 2 to 3 minutes per side. Remove to a tray lined with paper towels. Dust with confectioners sugar. Serve with apricot preserves. Yield: about 30 or more doughnuts.
