Gundel, Budapest's Famous Restaurant Turns 125

Guests wait for the evening to commence. Photo courtesy Gundel In the hospitality business it’s a rare thing for a restaurant to even reach its first birthday. Every additional year is a gift. What about 125 years? Gundel restaurant in Budapest, Hungary recently celebrated 125 years. Technically their building turned 125—they’ve been around as a restaurant since 1910 when Károly Gundel took over the lease of Wampetics, the original restaurant, and eventually renamed it after himself. But even so, to have been in service for that long is a feat. And to have been through what Gundel has been through is an amazing history lesson. Just to give you a taste. A bust of János Gundel, Károly's father, adorns the restaurant's lobby. For Hungarians, the name Gundel has been synonymous with hospitality, and not just any kind, but the best service and the highest quality food. And it has left an indelible mark on Hungarian gastronomy with popular dishes, some that have become

Hamantaschen



I love many Jewish dishes and baked goods, especially Hamantaschen. Maybe it's because my mom used to work at a Jewish bakery that I love them so much. Whenever I would visit her at work, she would always let me have a Hamantaschen to try. I especially adore the ones filled with apricot preserves, but the ones filled with prune lekvar or poppy seeds are more traditional. At the time I didn't know the meaning behind the triangular treats. It was much later that I learned they were made for the holiday of Purim, which celebrates the deliverance of the Jews from the evil Haman as told in the Book of Esther.

Some stories write that Hamantaschen are triangular to symbolize Haman's hat, which most likely might have been a tricorne, a three-cornered style of hat. Interestingly, in Hungary I've seen these cookies formed slightly differently. Instead of pinching the corners to create a pocket in the center, the cookies' centers are pinched so that the three corners are left slightly opened. So it's up to you which hat-like shape you would prefer.

These little pockets of sweet filling are rather easy to make. The dough comes together in minutes; it's only the chilling that takes time. Since the dough is very sticky, it's important to chill the dough in between handling to prevent tearing and misshapen circles. Citrus juice and zest are traditional ingredients in the recipe, adding a nice zing of flavor. Use either an orange or a lemon, or even both. Celebrate Purim with these cookies!

Hamantaschen

Note: I like whole-wheat pastry flour in the dough for its nutty flavor and its softer structure. You can substitute whole-wheat flour or white whole-wheat flour. Or make the recipe entirely out of all-purpose flour.

1 cup all-purpose flour
1 cup whole-wheat pastry flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup granulated sugar
1 large egg
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 tablespoon grated orange zest
1/4 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
apricot preserves
prune lekvar

In a medium bowl, sift together dry ingredients: flours, baking powder, and salt.

In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy. Add egg, vanilla, zest, and juice; mix until combined. Add the dry ingredients a little at a time on low speed, scraping down the sides of the bowl. Mix until combined.

Form dough into two disks and wrap in plastic. Refrigerate for at least 3 hours before rolling.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper or Silpats.

Roll out one disk of dough on a lightly floured surface to about 1/8 inch thick. Keep second disk in refrigerator until ready to roll. Cut out circles with 3-inch or 2-1/2 inch round cutter and transfer using an offset spatula to lined baking sheet. Chill circles until firm, about 30 minutes. Form scraps of dough into a disk, wrap in plastic, and keep in refrigerator until ready to roll again.

Remove chilled circles from refrigerator. Fill each with 1 tablespoon of preserve or lekvar. Fold up sides to create a triangular shape, pinching ends. Bake until golden, about 15 minutes. Let cool completely. Yield: 30 Hamantaschen.